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Corner Joints
Perfect Fit For Corner Joints
I suggest doing
all outside corner joint pieces first, striving for that perfect fit
(glued is best) where it juts out. Then do the inside joints as
follows:
I recommend that one NEVER make a double 45 inside
corner joint with any trim; base, shoe, cove, crown, chair rail,
etc. Rather, one should square cut the inside corner end of one
piece and install it with the square cut to the joining wall.
Then bevel the inside corner end of the meeting piece at 45
and cut away, with coping saw or recip saw, the 'exposed' angle wood
( visualize looking at the face of this piece - the cutout of the
meeting end will exactly match the contour of the face of the trim
it's going to fit against). If this piece is cut a tad long and the
2 ends fitted first, when the outward bow in
the middle is
pushed to the wall, the joint will look like it grew that way! And
shrinkage/swelling cycles will result in a much less noticeable
joint than if 2 45s are used.
Baseboards
Hints
When there is a 1/2" gap under
baseboard, in the Southeastern US, it's often installed that way in
rooms to be carpeted, with carpet and pad more than making the
opening invisible - makes the baseboard look taller, too. If such an
installation is being converted to hard flooring that will leave a
gap, then a piece of small section trim would be preferable to
caulkfilling.
Shoe Molding/Quarter Round Use
I must when baseboard sealing of the gap between floor and
wall use shoe molding or quarter round. It is flexible and follows
the waves in the floor. When properly angle nailed, the shoe molding
snugs up tightly to both floor and baseboard.
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